Ultratravel U.S.

Spring 2014

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To book your own Argentine adventure, contact your travel agent today. 28 ultratravel Buenos Aires is often called the "Paris of South America" for its compelling architecture, sidewalk cafés and rich European heritage. But the city and its culture is a study in contrasts: European sensibilities and Latin American passion, wide boulevards and wealthy areas in the Recoleta district and cobblestone alleys and the working-class tanguero neighborhoods of La Boca and San Telmo. On my second visit to Argentina, I ventured off the beaten path to discover some of the city's hidden gems. READING ROOM Voted as the second best bookstore in the world in The Guardian, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is known for its beautiful interior. Open since 1912 and once an elegant, frescoed theater, it has been transformed to house more than 120,000 titles from every imaginable genre. Today, the box seating, which happens to have the best architectural views, is available for reading and sipping espressos. STREET STYLE Buenos Aires has become one of the world's most exciting cities for street art. Graffitimundo offers guided tours that reveal the extraordinary history of the city's vibrant urban art culture, from its political origins to modern trends. I also stopped by artists' studios, some of whom were happy to chat about their work. EAT HERE NOW Tegui, in the trendy Palermo district, has been featured on the prestigious "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list. The interior is sophisticated and intimate. The minimalist menu— seasonally inspired—changes weekly. The graffiti-covered entrance adds a touch of play and the ricotta gnocchi is a standout dish. FLEA MARKET FINDS San Telmo's crumbling streets are the backdrop for its rambling flea market. On Sundays, it feels like the entire population of Buenos Aires flocks to this area, home to a network of antiques, Deco and modernist shops that stretch for miles. In the past decade, many contemporary art galleries and art spaces have sprung up in this colonial neighborhood, which makes for an eclectic experience. SKI SUPREME Known as the "Switzerland of South America," Bariloche is home to Cerro Catedra, one of the biggest ski resorts on the continent. But travel beyond the resorts to the surrounding mountains and prepare yourself for some of the most breathtaking views this side of the equator. ROOM WITH A VIEW Llao Llao, an expansive resort nestled in the heart of Patagonia's lake district, is known as the grandest in all of Patagonia. The rooms and public spaces, including the swimming pool, offer spectacular views of the Andean peaks and lakes. Of course, hiking and fishing are popular activities here. ICE ADVENTURES Don't miss the trek to the Perito Moreno Glacier, considered the eighth wonder of the world. (It's actually bigger in landmass than the city of Buenos Aires.) Once you're outfitted with ice shoes, the guide will take you on an hour-and-a-half trek. Your reward at the end of the adventure is a Scotch on the rocks—using ice chipped off the glacier, naturally. Patagonia, at the southern edge of Argentina, is a must for adventure-seekers. Wanderlust calls for adventures beyond Buenos Aires' better- known spots. Here, Angella Nazarian shares some of the highlights from her Argentine roads less traveled. Travel Diary Southern Hospitality

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